Friday, May 8, 2009

Outside 10 Gopeng Street











Walks happen early morning and after the sun goes down. [springtime marks the beginning of hotter weather.]

The main neighborhood, Tangong Pagar or "divided island", lies in southeast Chinatown bordering the Financial District.
Among other things, it is the center of the gay district populated by bars, clubs and bridal fashion shops on Neil Road. [who better than a stylish faggot to dress a hopeful Cinderella on the most important day of her life?]

Singaporeans are fast walkers in this humidheat. I've learned to slow my pace to minimize overheating & drenching. British Colonial structures predominate the oldest areas flanked by concrete-metal-glass superstructures. Construction is rampant in within a two block radius of the ICON.

Narrow alleys hidden behind lines of Colonial row houses reveal small, freestanding altar houses which contain offerings of fruit and burning incense.
I prefer these walkways to the street front sidewalks. On one recent jaunt I discovered an impromptu arrangement of Chinese deity figurines arranged on a makeshift altar top=A homemade art gallery installation of throwaway art on miniature scale.
The artist clearly has an affection for this religious garbage; the artwork is an act of rescue and adaptive reuse.
It's more satisfying than the more studied, self-conscious work in local galleries---unlike cultural venues in most cities, this "art" is never pretentious or apologetic.

Another sidewalk statement I see every now and then is a burnt offering bounded by a chalk circle. Dave Woo of Singapore says it's dark. Rough translation: bad Taoist voodoo to be avoided. That specifically means not stepping within the chalk boundary. That's a lot to ask of someone whose head is usually in the clouds but I manage to be vigilant.

Other areas of the city, Dhoby Ghat or Orchard Road, although more contemporary like the nearby financial district, lack the charm and character of Tanjong Pagar.

1 comment:

  1. you know, at first i thought of the distance, homesickness, cultural disorientation and all and i thought how brave you are. i still think you are brave and strong but i also think you are so lucky. i hate tourism. i have loved living actually living like any civilian in rome, assisi and london. i hope some day to go back to kyoto and live the same way there. i think it's the only way to come home and say, yes, i know that place. that place is part of me, for better or for worse, now.

    ReplyDelete